Alexander Smalls on African Cuisine and Culture

flavors unknown podcast

In this episode of Flavors Unknown, I sit down with the extraordinary Alexander Smalls—Harlem-based chef, opera singer, storyteller, and James Beard Award-winning author. Alexander recently released his latest book, The Contemporary African Kitchen, a celebration of African culinary traditions and the chefs shaping its future.

Recorded in the intimate setting of Alexander’s Harlem apartment, we explore the photo-lined hallway that pays homage to his South Carolina roots. Our conversation is a deep dive into the intersection of music, food, and identity, with Alexander sharing how his Gullah Geechee upbringing shaped his approach to bringing the vibrant, often-overlooked flavors of Africa to fine dining tables around the world.

From his early days performing opera to becoming a culinary ambassador of the African diaspora, Alexander Smalls reflects on the personal stories, cultural connections, and bold ideas that drive his work.

What you’ll learn from Alexander Smalls

• Misconceptions about African cuisine – 3:45
• What makes African food unique – 4:49
• The overlooked respect for African cuisine – 6:09
• Writing The Contemporary African Kitchen with his Ghanaian co-author – 8:14
• Resistance from other African chefs – 11:33
• Connecting regional flavors and ingredients – 13:21
• Colonialism’s influence on food – 17:15
• Music, family, and food in his South Carolina home – 18:42
• The role of Alexander Smalls uncle and Gullah Geechee roots – 19:40
• Standing out in his Southern community – 20:50
• Visiting West Africa and connecting with his grandfather’s spirit – 23:40
• Learning the art of entertaining – 24:48
• Championing African food’s rightful place in fine dining – 25:46
• Elevating African dishes through French techniques – 27:36
• African cuisine vs. Southern soul food – 28:39
• Filling the gap for upscale African restaurants – 30:27
• Alexander Smalls unexpected opera talent as a child – 32:44
• Helping integrate the school system – 35:10
• Why Alexander Smalls left music professionally – 36:25
• World travels through music – 37:55
• Honoring Negro spirituals through a passion project – 40:11
• Launching his restaurant vision – 42:40
• Training in European kitchens – 44:00
• His best-selling plate from the early days – 45:15
• The “shoebox lunch” tribute – 47:40
• Creating America’s first black-owned Best New Restaurant – 49:00
• African origins of a popular dish – 49:57
• Reflections on Menton’s concept – 52:22
• A pandemic project and a surprising Dubai connection – 53:22
• Telling his childhood story through food – 56:02
• Harlem’s vibrant food scene – 58:02
• His guilty pleasure food – 1:00:35
• Dishes Alexander Smalls cooks for friends – 1:01:54
• The pie that reminds him of childhood – 1:02:32
• His ‘what if’ career path – 1:03:25

I’d like to share a potential educational resource, “Conversations Behind the Kitchen Door”, my new book that features dialogues with accomplished culinary leaders from various backgrounds and cultures. It delves into the future of culinary creativity and the hospitality industry, drawing from insights of a restaurant-industry-focused podcast, ‘flavors unknown”. It includes perspectives from renowned chefs and local professionals, making it a valuable resource for those interested in building a career in the culinary industry.

Get the book here!

Overview of My Conversation with Alexander Smalls

• The truth about African cuisine – misconceptions, uniqueness, and the lasting impact of colonialism.
• The art of storytelling through food – how Alexander’s childhood, music career, and global travels shape his approach to cooking.
• Voices of Africa – the collaborative process behind The Contemporary African Kitchen and the surprising resistance he encountered from chefs along the way.
• Cultural connections – the links between West Africa and his family, and how visiting the region grounded his culinary path.
• From music to food – why Alexander transitioned from opera to the kitchen, and how both art forms influence his creativity.
• Elevating African cuisine – redefining African food through the techniques of fine dining and European kitchens.

Links to most downloaded episodes (click on any picture to listen to the episode)

Chef Sheldon Simeon

Chef Andy Doubrava

Chef Chris Kajioka

Chef Suzanne Goin

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Links mentioned in this episode

Alexander Smalls